The first day of the 2011 Sino-Italian Fashion Summit held in Beijing today made clear China’s desire to have more influence in global fashion. Yet it also laid bare some of the difficulties it faces in making that happen.
The two-day gathering has brought together some of the top Chinese fashion luminaries in China and from Italy. Chinese speakers include billionaire Gao Dekang of down jacket maker Bosideng, Xia Hua of Eve Fashion, and designer Guo Pei, all members of our list of 25 Influential Chinese in Global Fashion this year. Italian attendees among the group of around 200 on hand included Massimo Ferretti, president of Aeffe, and Mathias Facchini, the CEO of Bylos.
On the first today, speaker after Chinese speaker discussed the influence of traditional Chinese culture on their designs. Guo, perhaps the country’s most influential haute coutoure designer today, showed off some colorful creations inspired by tradition. Xia Hua, president of Eve Fashion, earnestly highlighted Chinese cultural elements in her designs, as did Diane Zhou, president of Sunfed. As a group, they distantly reminded of Vivienne Tam, who found success in the U.S. more than a decade ago with East-West influences.
The limits of that market today were hinted at by the clothing worn by the audience: In the swank environs of the five-star Peninsula Hotel, hardly anyone had dressed up a notably “Chinese” style. It’s largely the same in any city in China. By contrast, many Chinese consumers seem more interested in snapping up Italian styles. Mainstream and high-end fashion magazines in the country are full of ads and articles about overseas brands and retailers. And just this week (see story here), Gap Inc. said it expected to open stores at the rate of two a month in the mainland and Hong Kong amid strong consumer spending, and that was even planning to launch Banana Republic and Old Navy as early as 2013.
Some of the more market-oriented ideas at the summit came from Ji Pingsheng, who has his own successful brand in Europe. Design should embrace a mix of ideas, Ji said. Zou You, the president of Beijing Zaishi Fashion, also sensibly suggested China’s design future would require some sort of transformation to make more progress.
The summit continues tomorrow. Speakers will include Bosideng’s Gao, a partner in China of Nasdaq-listed Iconix.
The event is organized by the China Fashion Association and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.